5 egg yolks + 100g powdered sugar (beat with whisk)

1 cup cream + 1 tsp vanilla extract (or 1/4 tsp vanilla paste), heat until simmer, then add slowly to eggs, beating the whole time. (the slowness is called "tempering", it ensures that the eggs don't get cooked by the cream.

200ml vodka (or rum, or brandy)

for eis, add 1 cup cold milk.

As part of my project to learn to cook favorite foods from my lifetime (and especially my life in ice cream), the third ice cream flavor that I'm working on is Pistachio White Chocolate from the venerable Gelato Classico in San Francisco. They now omit the white chocolate chips.

I got it right on the second try.

The first thing you need to do is make pistachio paste. I got the recipe from InsanityTheory. Put the following into a food processor:

This will make far more paste than you need for a batch of ice cream. It can be frozen.

Now for the ice cream, I started with David Lebovitz' recipe, but found it way too sweet once I'd added the white chocolate chips. So I modified it. The fascinating part of this recipe is the omission of eggs, as they overpower the subtle pistachio flavor... Without eggs, ice cream is even easier to make!

4 cups whole milk
1/2 cup (65 gr) sugar
4 tablespoons (16 gr) cornstarch (also known as corn flour)
1/3 cup pistachio paste

1. Make a slurry by mixing 1/2 cup of the milk with 4 tbsp cornstarch, mixing until the starch is dissolved and the mixture is smooth.

2. Heat the rest of the milk along with the sugar in a saucepan

3. When it almost starts to boil, stir in the cornstarch mixture and cook at gentle simmer for 3 minutes, stirring constantly.

4. Remove from heat, scrape into a bowl, and chill thoroughly, preferably overnight. Just before putting it into the ice cream freezing machine, stir in the pistachio paste.

5. Add 100g chopped white chocolate during the freezing process.

I joke that my two food groups are kale and ice cream. Truth being always more complicated than the stories we tell, the kale is often chicory, and I sometimes go days without ice cream…

But since I try to eat organic ingredients it often occurs to me that the ice cream I eat rarely is. So I have been considering purchasing an ice cream machine. This is a big decision because I don’t like gadgets. I don’t like them to clutter the kitchen, I don’t like to clean them, and I don’t like how poorly they tend to age.

In considering the considerations, and discussing with friends, I realized that an ice cream maker would enable me to create many different flavors. This seems too obvious to mention, but I've eaten a lot of ice cream in my life but usually only one flavor per city. There seems to be a particular kind of flavor that offers comfort, and I rarely stray from whatever is doing a good job for me. Few cities have offered me more than one flavor that worked. Interested in this recognition, I wrote a history of my life in ice cream.

Childhood in San Francisco was the original Nob Hill Swenson’s Thin Mint (mint chip) ice cream, properly green and itself the subject of another blog post here.

When my grandmother would rescue me from boarding school she always took me to a shop that no longer exists where I always had amaretto.

I don’t remember eating ice cream in college, just really great bran muffins and bananas, cheap Indian food and scallion pancakes. But at home in the summer, seriously anorexic (and cleary anemic as well), I subsisted on Gelato Classico’s Pistachio White Chocolate. One summer I worked for another gelato shop and fell in love with their rice ice cream.

In graduate school I discovered Dreyer’s rocky road. One phase of recovery from anorexia consisted exclusively in allowing myself to eat as much ice cream as I liked (punctuated with sweetened cereal, specifically frosted mini-wheats).

Lonely living in a boring small town during my first job, ice cream was my sole pleasure. There was a Ben&Jerry’s store, and I bought hand-packed Cherry Garcia which had a higher density of cherries and chocolate than the pre-packed pints. I crumbled the store’s fresh waffle cones on top. To replicate this, I used Martha Stewart's vanilla base, dark chocolate chunks, and fresh cherries. But the fresh cherries got too icy frozen, so then I tried soaking them in vodka hoping that the vodka would replace some of the water in the cells and have a less icy texture.

My grandmother’s favorite flavors were butter pecan and maple walnut, which we often bought from 31 Flavors. When she left us, it was all I could eat.

Living in Wellington I discovered a new flavor, Kaffee Eis’ Biscotti (oreo cookies). Like rocky road, it's in a mild chocolate base, which seems to be a theme in my preferences.

The backup flavor, available all over the US, was Häagen Dazs' Rum Raisin. And that’s the first flavor I’m making with the new ice cream machine… I soaked the raisins in rum for a few hours, then used Martha Stewart's vanilla base (skipping the first few steps with the vanilla beans). The flavor was perfect.

And what I've learned so far about making ice cream:


My recipe for ice cream base (you need to add flavors):

if you have a compressor machine you can put this directly in, or cool it first and then put it in. if you have a freezer bowl machine you must cool first.