i ate at, in order of how much i liked them. all were excellent and
for all it's best to have reservations. also before you plan to go,
call because many places in philly do not have normal hours in august.
(it is the month of vacations, i guess.) also all of these restaurants
are BYOB, meaning you bring your own wine or beer. they do not have
liquor licenses (maybe it is hard to get in philly?). but they don't
charge you corkage to open your own.
- Favorite: Django
. 526 S 4th St . 215.922.7151
Martinos . 1646 E Passyunk Ave . 215.755.0663
7 . 7 N 3rd St . 215.931.1560
. 1415 W Porter St . 215.389.4252
are some other really highly recommended ones (same price range) that
were closed for vacation, but i am confident in them, because i did
a lot of research.
(does not take reservations) . 2201 Spruce St . 215.875.8116
. 232 Arch St . 215.629.2337
to explore during the DAY
Terminal Market (a good "food
court", all local shops, huge & exciting) closed
Sunday. 12th & Arch.
Bruno cheese shop in the Italian Market (9th street, a few blocks
south of "South Street")
- Claudio Mozzarella, a few doors down from Di Bruno. eat the mozzarella
while walking down the street, then go back for more. the 9th street market is
MUST have a cheesesteak, it is the Philadelphia
Famous Food. these are the best (do not go to Pat's or Gino's. they
are for tourists.)
roast pork on snyder avenue
- jim's cheesesteaks on south street @ 4th. this
is the one i went to and it was amazing. you have to wait in line,
but it's worth it. there are long red peppers (the kind that are
dried then soaked in oil) in a little bowl right right next to the
cash register. look for them and ask. they are not too hot (not
as hot as they look) and really great!
san francisco farmers market at ferry plaza, a building now devoted
to slow food and local artisanal production. (you need at least 3 hours.
donŐt miss the oysters in southeastmost section.) www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com
times book store . 888 valencia street . 415.282.9246 www.mtbs.com
bakery: absolutely not to miss. sublime pastry. and only a few blocks
from modern times bookstore. 600 guerrero @ 18th. open daily until 7
or 8 pm. tartinebakery.com/
valley bakery & bread co: baked goods just SO well done. you'll
need to go with a friend and swap off participating in some classic
san francisco double-parking as finding a parking place is impossible.
do not miss the apricot ginger bread and the
chocolate cherry bread. the construction of sweetness in these breads
is unusual and just tremendous. their cheddar scones are the only scones
i eat, anywhere, ever. 4073 24th street just east of castro on the south
side of 24th. www.noevalleybakery.com also apparently they have a location at ferry
café: dinner, brunch, lunch. easy, romantic
(or not), great food (organic and seasonal ingredients). parking
isn't bad in this neighborhood. 2814 19th street. 415.821.4608 www.universalcafe.net/
larder. truly amazing part of the permanent farmers market shops housed
inside the ferry plaza building. you have never been anywhere like this
before. stop in and try something. enter from the east/water side of
the building. www.bouletteslarder.com/
hotel (i haven't stayed here yet, but it
looks like it could make a trip to sf affordable): www.sfhoteldesarts.com/
- Brown restaurant
. Lower East Side . 61 Hester Street (at Essex Street) . 212.254.9825
. breakfast & lunch 9am-6pm . dinner wed-sun 6-midnight
Daisy (formerly Sullivan
in Soho 73 Sullivan Street 212.334.9435. open 7 days a week from 7am-7pm
Noodle . 391 2nd Avenue @ 22nd Street . 212.725.7770 . a beautiful and
comfortable space to unwind and eat great vietnamese
food, inexpensively. mid-town. 7 days 11am-11pm Friday & Saturday
- pastries you've never imagined, at affordable prices: The Hungarian Pastry Shop 1030 Amsterdam Avenue (betw West 110th and 111th streets)
- Falai . 68 Clinton St, New York . 212.253.1960
fancy food, exciting decor.
(update: still amazing
11.06, 8.07, 2.08)
- Falai Bakery is sublime and open at night, kitty corner on south west corner of the intersection.
- il laboratorio del gelato
. 95 orchard between broome & delancey . 212.343.9922 . when i was
there i got to watch a woman carefully selecting the lavendar blossoms
for the next batch of ice cream.
- really charming wine bar, grape
& grain 620 east 6th between avenues B & C. 212.420.0002.
- fresh local apparel and accessories talent saturdays and Sundays at The Market NYC, 268 Mulberry (St Patrick's youth center betw Houston & Prince) in SoHo/Nolita. 11-7. hand-made and cutting edge...
- the market's 60 top local fashion craftspeople at edge
nyNOHO. wednesday to sunday starting at noon, 65 bleecker street
betweeen broadway & lafayette. 212.358.0255. website
- need a hostess gift?
actually no one in new york needs anything, they need less
stuff. help them condense at this east village store: tiny living,
125 east 7th. 2112.228.2748. daily 11-9. tiny-living.com
- branded fashionista? go to ina
to find a few well-selected items from big names, used. dig through
the galvanized tubs on the floor for things you can afford. several
locations including 15 bleecker street between lafayette & bowery.
212.228.8511. also 262 mott, 101 thompson, 21 prince, 208 east 73rd.
- affordable vintage in new york? hard to
find. one place to go: canal jean
company, 718 broadway, just below 8th street.
- good quality indian imports, much
better than you're used to, at the same price! hello
sari 261 broome street, 212.274.0791
- important books
(& fair trade coffee): bluestockings at 172 allen (between stanton
and rivington) 212.777.6028. (they also have great events).
- get some education
at the brecht forum, 451 west street right on the water. 212.242.4201
- elegant room in modern brooklyn house, near the very convenient F line. full kitchen. free parking. $125/night. (article and photos from a NYT article contact owner at firstname.lastname@example.org).
- inexpensive hotel (i haven't stayed here yet, but it
looks like it could make a trip to ny affordable): chelsea lodge $114 "wood panelling, intimate rooms, b&b feel" toilets shared by tthe floor.
DO NOT MISS the top two:
Canteen . 2 Crispin Place Spitalfields London . E1 6DW UK
. (+44) 0845 686 1122 . all fresh, seasonal food is not california cuisine. this was, as the restaurant says, traditional British food, but cooked with the sensitivities of "the new cuisine" which is such a meaningless term. but there was nothing about it which reminded of nouvelle anything... no blanched vegetables. no architecture. no contrasts.
moroccan: Maison Touaregue (23 greek street in soho) had sublime food. order the lamb tagine. Zaytouna (same owners, same decor, same menu, around the corner at 45 frith street) had sweet staff and bleached blonde arab lesbians smoking hookah and kissing in the corner, but a decidedly less tender and complex lamb tagine. touaregue's had caramelized onions, raisins, dates, and an enchanting cinnamon perfume that haunted me the whole next day.
*cheap eats* Leon . at Spitalfields (and a few other locations)
3 Crispin Place London E1 6DW Tel: 020 7247 4369
shop/snack: spitalfields market stalls , which is am amazing artisanal foods market and craft market for real handcrafts. the location, nearby buildings, and setup looks quite touristy and junky. but it's actually very fine quality foods and exceedingly funky artists. absolutely hand made. the setting is completely incongruous.
takeaway gourmet (humbly called "deli" in london)
tavola in notting hill 155 Westbourne Grove Notting Hill London, W11 2RS
Tel: 020 7229 0571
ottolenghi, several locations
63 Ledbury Road Notting Hill London, W11 2AD Tel: 020 7727 1121
ok, the food in paris is very expensive. there are cute bistros several on any block but these places are total rip offs. the food is awful and i was shocked at how expensive AND BAD it is. using my usual methods of discernment didn't help. i was repeatedly fooled my menus and atmosphere. i learned not to eat anywhere that i haven't researched. and also as a backup never to order the same thing as fellow diners, otherwise we might be totally screwed.
definitely visit the big sunday food market at the bastille
the only good places we ate:
le troquet, basque. everything was delicious. more accessible than the french food. the vanilla souffle was the best thing i ate in paris. 1 rue francois bonvin in 15th arrondisement. 126.96.36.199.89.00 they serve a la carte, or 3 courses, or 6 courses (for only 38, which is a really good price).
chez michel, french. 10 rue de belzunce in 10th arrondisement. 188.8.131.52.06.20
here's the thing. translated menus are a bad sign. but even feeling pretty good about my french getting around, i couldn't figure out ANYTHING from some of the menus and the staff does NOT want to translate. you need to take a culinary translation dictionary, or at least a regular translation dictionary, at least to dinner, even if you have some french, food is harder to translate (both directions, of course). even in denmark, where people have amazing english, translating food was really difficult.
breakfast: le pain quotidian specifically the one in mouffetard. this is a big chain, but this particular one seems to be independent and has the best breakfast pastry i ate. also the best coffee i had. great location looking out into the daily street market.
bakery: boulangere monge on monge avenue at gobelins. (metro 7 to censier-daubentoin, then walk south on monge). they have a special baguette, called "baguette du monge". everything else is great too. a cut above all the other patisseries.
i would skip, even though it has good reviews: aux lyonnaise in 2nd. this food is not what i would call accessible. i had a fancy fish dish that tasted to me like a wet muffin. the bread was served in a style that i would describe as "burned toast". i was pretty horrified to spend 112 euros. and their souffle is definitely not as good as le troquet.
restaurant cofoco Abel Cathrines Gade 7, 1654 Kbh. V mandag til lørdag kl. 17.30 - 24
3 course seasonal danish food, prix fixe
tango info: http://tangoportalen.com